Milford Track...Wow wow wow!

Hey all,

We just got back from Fiordland and our hike of the world famous Milford track. Absolutely incredible! (to save typing I plagiarized the track description from the Department of Conservation website)

Day zero, Freestone Backpackers

Here's the view from our backpackers accomodation before our trip. They were having a Christmas Eve celebration BBQ. Dessert was barbecued bananas with melted chocolate inside. Yum!

Day one (Christmas Day!), Glade wharf - Clinton hut

Time: 1 - 1 hr 30 min
Distance: 5 km

After a boat cruise from Te Anau Downs (1¼ hours approx) there is a one kilometre walk to Glade House, the first overnight stop for guided walkers (those who paid $3000+ to walk Milford Track including catered dinners = not us). Just past Glade House is the largest and the first of the nine suspension bridges you will encounter on your trip. On a fine day this is a pleasant lunch stop.

Just outside Glade House. Look how clean we are!!! They gave us chocolate as we passed to celebrate Christmas.

A short way along the track.

Independent walkers (that's us) continue on the track for about one hour, through attractive beech forest along the banks of the Clinton River, to the Clinton Hut. There are good swimming holes near the hut and a side trip around the wetland board walk.

We found some carnivorous flowers along the wetland boardwalk. This is one of Andrea's favorite pictures.

Since the first day was so short I got to do some fly fishing along the river. There were massive fish in this river that I did a good job spooking.

The hut ranger gave a guided nature walk after dinner and then took us to visit a glowworm dell just upriver.

From the Clinton Hut Helipad at sunset.

Day two, Clinton hut - Mintaro hut

Time: 6 hr
Distance: 16.5 km

It is a gradual climb from Clinton Hut as the track follows the Clinton River to its source, Lake Mintaro, at the base of Mackinnon Pass. It passes through sections of forest and crosses many streams, which may need to be forded during or after heavy rain.

Drea along the river edge.

The track passes through many avalanche paths. There are 56 such paths along the track which can cause delays or make the track impassable at any time, especially during the September to early November period. (Yay December!!) These are sign posted during the danger season. Use caution at other times as dictated by the weather.

Some of the many waterfalls along the path to Mintaro Hut.

One of the inquisitive Kea at the Mintaro Hut. This one was in the process of stealing someone's boot

Once we arrived at the hut we ate dinner, relaxed and listened to the ranger talk. We had been told that the Mackinnon pass over the mountains is often fogged in so we decided to take a quick trip up to the summit while the view was still good. The view was stupendous...

Evening light half way up the pass.

Small mountain tarns and fog at the top of the pass.

These pictures were at the edge of the "12 second drop". Yikes.

Drea's in this picture and she's very very small.

Day three, Mintaro hut - Dumpling hut

Time: 6 - 7 hr
Distance: 14 km

From Mintaro Hut there is a well-graded, steady, zigzag climb of about two hours to the Mackinnon Memorial. On the way there are excellent views of Lake Mintaro and the Clinton Canyon.

Heading back up the pass on the third day.

It is worth stopping for a few minutes at the memorial to take in the view from the 12 second drop, before commencing the final climb to the highest point of the track and the pass day shelter (1069 metres).

Incredible views from here.

Looking back down the Clinton valley where we came from.

It is about a twenty minute walk from the memorial to the shelter. The toilet with the best view in Fiordland is located near the shelter.

This is the view from the toilet. Not too shabby, eh?

The 8 km walk from the pass to the Dumpling Hut drops 970 metres steadily over rocky, uneven terrain and provides spectacular views. For many walkers this is the most difficult part of the track.

The Moraine Creek Bridge, the first bridge crossed on the descent, is approximately a third of the way down to Quintin Hut turnoff. Shortly after, the track follows the river, on which there are several waterfalls. This section of the track has wooden boardwalk and staircases in a number of places until it crosses the Roaring Burn swing bridge.

The track then continues to follow the river, with the Dudleigh Falls located about two thirds of the way down. A set of rocky and uneven zigzags leads to the bottom of the hill.

The side trip to the Sutherland Falls is well worth the effort. Leave your pack at the Quintin Public Shelter and take the track on the left to the Sutherland Falls - about 1½ hours return.

You can also walk behind the waterfall. I'm in this picture and I'm very very small, you can just make out my hands.

Drea decided to come behind the falls with me after taking this picture. We both got thoroughly soaked but the weather was warm and we dried off quickly.

A good swimming hole can be found just opposite the turnoff to the huts. Swimming hole good, swarming sandflies bad.

Day four, Dumpling hut - Sandfly point

Time: 5 hr 30 min - 6 hr
Distance: 18 km
Our last day started out with heavy heavy rain. Here's a view of our last hut.

The track gently descends, following the Arthur River for about 1½ hours to the historic Boatshed. A toilet is located here. (OK, maybe I shouldn't plagiarize the -whole- track description...)

After crossing the swingbridge, it is about 20 minutes to MacKay Falls and Bell Rock. Bell Rock is an intriguing rock, which has been worn by water and grinding stones and then tipped over in a rock fall.

Mackay Falls

Inside Bell Rock

The rock cuttings alongside the Arthur River and around Lake Ada were blasted out by prison gangs and contracted work parties in the late 19th century. About an hour later are the Giant Gate Falls.

The water was absolutely pouring off the mountainside. The ranger said that at times it can rain almost two feet in a single day. I wouldn't doubt it.

Giant's Gate Falls

From here it is about 1½ hours to Sandfly Point. Flooding can cause delays through this section of track.

WE MADE IT!!!!

The boat cruise back to Milford (where we picked up our bus back) was pretty spectacular as well.

(This video is rather large and may take some time)

Giving us a fantastic glimpse of Milford Sound when the waterfalls are most active. They say that you have to see Milford twice. Once when it's sunny and once when it's rainy. (rainy Milford - check)

Bowen Falls

The Milford road on the way out.

On the way back to Te Anau we passed fields upon fields of wild lupine. We had to turn back after getting dropped off to take a few pictures.

Day five, Freestone Backpackers

Here's a daytime shot of the view from our cottage.

The whole trip was absolutely incredible. We were so lucky with the weather (we were really thankful to see Milford on a day of heavy rain despite getting thoroughly soaked) . We came away from the track feeling very awe inspired, very small, only a little sore and having made some new friends. The only downsides of the trip were the sandflies (and Drea being allergic to them) and that I sprained a ligament in my foot on the last day. Because of the last bit we've decided to postpone the Routeburn/Caples until February - assuming I'll be plenty good by then.

Love to all and hope you had a wonderful Christmas,

Dave and Andrea